Text by Jiaming Lin Translation by TC Li

Taiwan’s very own Riviera, the southern coast Taiwan around Kenting, offers visitors some of Asia’s most spectacular and diverse nature and culture

Known as the Gold Coast of Taiwan, the road from Kaohsiung to Kenting is a jaunt that caters to all sorts of travellers. From natural scenery to shopping, the mountains and the sea, this road trip guarantees a glimpse into the different facets of southern Taiwan. And there’s no better place to start exploring Kenting than Kaohsiung, the biggest city in this part of Taiwan.

It’s best to take the sightseeing cruise to see Kaohsiung if you have limited time. With Love River Boat Tours, you’ll travel along the 12-kilometre canal that runs through the heart of the city and see the Kaohsiung Museum of History and al fresco cafés on both sides of the banks on the way. Alternatively, take the holiday-only sightseeing yacht at the True Love Pier to Cijin Peninsula; get snapshots of the big ships docked at the port before you treat yourself to a delicious seafood feast.

If you prefer to travel on land, take the MRT to Formosa Boulevard Station. Whether you want to pig out at the Liouhe Night Market, shop till you drop around the Sanduo Shopping District Station, or take a tour of historical architecture around the Ciaotou Station, Kaohsiung has it all.

About two to three hours’ drive south from Kaohsiung is Kenting, a popular, sunny vacation spot. As you pass Checheng Township, be sure to drop by Szechunghsi and take a relaxing dip in the hot spring. Szechunghsi is one of Taiwan’s best hot springs, alongside Beitou and Yangmingshan in Taipei, and Guanziling in Tainan. Szechunghsi was where the Japanese royalty headed for vacation during the Occupation, not least because of the cooler weather as a result of its location tucked away in the mountains.

While you’re in Checheng, you won’t want to miss the National Museum of Marine Biology and Aquarium. Divided into the Waters of the World, Water of Taiwan, and Coral Kingdom Pavilion exhibition halls, the museum, which boasts Asia’s longest underwater corridor, offers an exciting indoor marine experience. If you also like the idea of staying the at the museum overnight with all kinds of marine creatures and the aquatic blue as backdrop, make reservations in advance.

Crowds scattered all over the shore means you’ve reached Kenting. There’s never a dearth of water fun at Nanwan beach: if banana boats and water skis aren’t your idea of fun, join the other beach-goers for a session of beach volleyball or sand sculpting, or find a spot and bask in the sun. As pleasant as Nanwan may be, it’s wise to get behind the wheel and visit other areas of Kenting to experience its nature and local culture.

Houbihu Fishing Harbor, located on the west side, is perhaps better known for the effort put into conserving the coral reef. As a result, it draws countless visitors for a peek of the colourful marine life underwater through glass-bottomed sightseeing boats. There are also snorkeling courses for those who wish to get into the water and up close and personal with the marine creatures. Make a mental note to stop by the fish market afterwards, where you’ll find a wealth of fresh seafood.

For bird lovers, Longluantan is an absolute paradise. As part of Kenting National Park, this nature centre has both stationary exhibits and observation decks with telescopes for bird-watchers to get your fix of bird-watching fun. There are volunteers and temporary staff at the centre to teach visitors how to spot different bird cries if you’re really keen on trying to communicate.

If you’re into geology, then Maobitou, one of the two promontories at the southernmost tip of Taiwan, is the place to see. The interesting thing about these thousand year-old rocks is that they resemble a crouching cat, hence its name – literally “cat’s nose.” According to local legend, a couple was forced to separate and the man escaped to the sea. The woman waited for her partner’s return for so long she turned into a cat, crouched on the rocks.

For a different scenic view, go to the eastern side of the peninsula. You’ll need a permit to enter the Longkeng area but it’s worth the effort, as topographic features such as reefs, cliffs and limestone caves will leave you awe-struck. The view of the horizon from the raised platform is simply breathtaking. And don’t miss the Shadao Ecosystem Reserve, where the seashell sand beach glitters in the sun.

While you’re at it, make a stop at the Erluanbi Lighthouse, also located on the eastern strip of the peninsula. The lighthouse was built in 1883 and was a prominent feature on old local banknotes. To many historians, the lighthouse carries something beyond purely nautical or economic value: It has a sentimental presence in the local culture.

Now that you’ve trotted all around Kenting, it’s important to find a decent place to stay the night. With lodgings that feature various styles from Balinese to Greek, this is multi-ethnic Taiwan at its best.

The Italian-themed Tuscany Resort’s guestrooms are named and furnished after flowers – like the dainty Lilac room or the elegant Camellia room. On the other hand, South of Border boasts a laidback vibe where you can just listen to the sound of wind and waves all day long. You may also be intrigued by the stark contrast between the subdued interiors and the sun and greenery outside the window.

Central Kenting is a place to explore at night but if you don’t fancy bustling crowds while grabbing a cold pint, tucking into local and foreign delicacies or exploring individual shops, sipping your favourite drink by the shoreline and quietly enjoying the starry night is always an option.

Ins And Outs Of Kenting

National Museum of Marine Biology and Aquarium: 2 Houwan Road, Houwan Village, Checheng, Pingtung; +886 8 8825001 Nanwan: 223 Nanwan Road, Nanwan Lane, Hengchun Town, Pingtung Maobitou: 100 Xiaquan Road, Shuiquan Lane, Hengchun Town, Pingtung Houbihu: 79-43 Dakwang Road, Dakwang Lane, Henghun Town, Pingtung Longluantan: 86 Lane 250, Caotan Road, Hengchun Town, Pintung Shadao: 221 Shadao Road, Erluan Lane, Hengchun Town, Pingtung Longkeng: 50 Erluan Road, Erluan Lane, Hengchun Town, Pingtung Erluanbi: 301 Erluan Road, Eluan Lane, Hengchun Town, Pingtung

Accommodation

Tuscany Resort: TWD2750-4125 per double room. 1-3 Shiniu Lane, Kenting Road, Hengchun Town, Pingtung; +886 8 885 6886

South of Border: TWD 2700-3600 per double room. 275 Puding Road, Hengchun Town, Pingtung; +886 8 885 1248

Car Rental

Car rental companies have service counters inside Kaohsiung International Airport and the Taiwan high speed railway’s Zuoying station. Easy Rent (0800 024 550, www.easyrent.com.tw) and Car Plus (0800 222 568, www.car-plus.com.tw) are two major car rental outlets.

Text by Niels Footman Photography by Seunghoo Ryu Translation by Amanda Mao

首爾一洗單調的城市建築和交通壅塞的舊印象，成功轉型為亞洲設計之都

米蘭、阿姆斯特丹、東京、紐約……不須贅述，只要提起這 些世界設計之都，腦海馬上出現優雅、炫麗、代表性建築等 畫面。那首爾呢？聽者就算不給個白眼，也會責難它極其擁 擠的交通問題，或挑剔它到處是水泥建築的粗暴城市風格。

這些觀感促使南韓首都決意大破大立。21世紀初起，首 爾市政府展開一連串大翻修。才幾年的時間，這個曾經將經 濟發展置於一切之上的城市，現在已將一條老舊的高速公路 剷除，回復路基下流經市中心的原始河道——清溪川；路邊 的公車站牌是一件件雕塑藝術作品；而橫立漢江上的盤浦大 橋更是一件狂傲的創作，橋身兩側安裝了380個噴嘴口，以 五彩燈光、音樂、噴泉共演變幻莫測的大型水舞。這些讓人 感到暈眩的努力，在首爾被評選為《2010世界設計之都》 時，算是得到了回報。這項兩年一屆的榮譽由國際工業設計 聯合會評選及頒發，該會在全球擁有15萬名設計師會員。

「設計可以讓生活在短時間內產生巨大變化，」首爾的世 界設計之都計劃執行長，同時也是首爾弘益大學設計管理系 教授 Ken Nah 說道：「別人50年才能做到的事，首爾要在十 年內完成。」

沒有一處地方比得上《世界設計之都》旗艦計劃—— 東大門設計廣場及公園，更能展現首爾的設計野心。位於首 爾最熱鬧的購物區旁，這處龐大的鍍鈦包層結構體，將由一 處公園、一處媒體資訊處理中心，以及多處設計領域相關設 施所組成，是市政府特意規劃的時尚設計產業樞紐。由出生 於伊拉克的英籍建築大師扎哈哈迪德（Zaha Hadid）操刀， 斥資12億美元，預計2012年6月左右 向公眾敞開「高貴」的大門。

這些行動看來像是一時的熱症， 但事實上首爾市想透過藝術與設計 改善都市生活品質的想法，早已蘊 釀多年，首爾市南方的安養藝術公 園 便 是 一 個 具 體 的 美 麗 成 果 。 從 2005年起，52件國內外設計師的 創作，分別置於冠岳山與三星山間 的溪谷，這處韓國人極喜愛親近的 山林，現在迂迴曲折的林間步道上 散落著多樣有趣的藝術創作，成為 森林篇章中的美麗段落符號。精采 的創作包括由塑膠啤酒箱組成的波浪形箱屋，以及由芬蘭 建築師 Sami Rintala 所創作，狀似疊疊樂的木條與鋼條所 架構的元素屋。

回到首爾市區，首爾國立大學的藝術博物館也是城市 展現美學生活的產物。由荷蘭建築大師庫哈斯（Rem Koolhas ）設計，玻璃帷幕與鋼條結構的外觀，看似懸空於 綠色山坡上的超大纜車站，是首爾市首件刻意建造的大學當 代與現代韓國藝術館，引人駐足評賞的建築內，展出韓國現 代藝術家的作品，包括常設與短期展覽。

首爾進行大規模變身，首爾的本地設計師與建築師也如 繁花盛放；在經濟快速成長的當下，韓國將藝術設計擺在僅 次於科學工程的地位，僅首爾一地就有約一萬四千名學生正 接受設計學校或學院的課程教育，其中最負盛名的當屬弘益 大學的藝術設計系，理所當然，弘大的周邊區域也就成為首 爾最具波希米亞風情的藝術區了。

在弘大閒逛，很難不發現一些讓人咋舌驚嘆的精品店， 或現場表演場地、隨興展出的藝廊。週末弘益大學前的游戲 廣場則變身為希望（星期六）與自由（星期日）市集，一批 批的年輕藝術家聚集於此銷售創意，有手作T恤、耳環、畫 作、珠飾等。弘大也充斥著一堆古怪的咖啡店，其中最吸引 人的是aA設計博物館，除了看來像倉庫的一樓咖啡廳，博物 館的地下室、上層樓陳列了精選的現代及包浩斯風格傢具， 以及設計、建築類書籍。

在市區南方，首爾文化景觀陣容的最新成 員，也是最具視覺誘惑的建築物之一、位於時 尚的狎鷗亭洞附近的Platoon Kunsthalle，是 一處有酒吧、餐廳、藝廊的綜合藝文空間，由 28個貨櫃堆疊起的三層高建築物，以落地玻璃 為擋牆。自稱是首爾的次文化中心，Platoon Kunsthalle 也吸引了不少同好來逛這裡的工作 坊、跳蚤市場、未來藝術家的展覽，還有每星 期四、五晚上的DJ之夜。

三成洞綜合文化空間Kring，是當代韓國 建築最令人振奮的表現型態，這件本土建築公 司韻生同建築師事務所的作品，靈感得自創辦 人Woorim 的名字，Woorim 在韓文意為「迴 音」。整棟建物規劃有辦公室、咖啡廳、電影 院、藝廊，正面以不同大小的圓呈現的漩渦狀 表達一圈圈的聲波迴盪在空氣中。負責這個項 目之一的韻生同主建築師申昌勛認為，首爾的 建築師正享受著自由的新空氣，他表示：「首爾 和歐洲的倫敦、巴黎截然不同，歐洲文化深厚， 但首爾擁有較多機會。」

✈ 澳門航空提供每周7班航機飛往首爾

TIMES AND PLACES

東大門設計廣場及公園

整個項目預計2012年竣工，但包含 朝鮮王朝遺跡和展覽廳的「歷史文化 公園」已經開幕

安養藝術公園

全年開放，不收門票

首爾國立大學藝術博物館

開放時間由上午10點至下午6點， 星期一休館，入館免費

aA設計博物館

每日開放，時間由中午至午夜

開放時間由上午11點至凌晨1點， 星期一休館

大樓

咖啡廳、藝廊營業時間及電影放映檔 期可瀏覽www.kring.co.kr

路環

從地圖俯瞰澳門這城市，氣氛的分佈像個由北向南走的光譜，由繁盛 到閒適，一路向南，盡是隱世度假樂園──當路氹填海區因博彩娛樂 城變得熱鬧非凡時，位處最南端的路環仍然保持昔日情懷，在這片懷 舊味道十足的淨土，不但可找到恬靜的咖啡廳和獨具特色的葡國餐 廳，還有景致開揚的郊區和高球場，足以暢游一整天。

コロアネ島
マカオの南に位置するこの島には、自然が多く残っており、おしゃれなカフェや郊外へのゴルフツアーが楽しめる。

EAT

1 法蘭度餐廳

長年生意興隆的老字號葡國餐 廳， 環境充滿歐陸田園風味， 名菜脆皮燒乳豬訂單每晚應接不 暇，採用正宗烤法，將原隻乳豬 以葡國白酒浸過夜，加配料醃好 後再以炭火慢烤，擠上檸檬汁味 道更佳，記得要趁熱吃。

素朴で欧州の田園地方を思わせるイン テリアが人々を魅了してきたレストラン。

路環黑沙海灘9號

2 安德魯花園咖啡

位於恩尼斯總統前地旁邊，澳門 葡撻的發源地，必試7元一個的 葡撻，酥脆撻皮，咬下去甜度適 中；餅店由撻沙街舊址的小鋪發 展至花園式餐廳，環境更幽雅舒 適，飲品和沙拉亦很有水準。

豊富なメニューの中でものおすすめは、 何と言ってもポルトガル風エッグタルト。

路環市區打纜街105號

3 陸舟餐廳

位於路環與黑沙灣之間的竹灣海 灘，這間全海景的意式餐廳，烤 焗正宗薄餅只需8分鐘，皆因餐 廳的炭火燒烤爐保持高溫。意大 利麵款式多達13種，被喻為「環境與食物皆有五星級水準」。

壮大な景色と13種類のパスタ、そして早く てうまいピザが自慢のレストラン。

澳門路環竹灣馬路（竹灣泳池側）

DRINK

4 竹灣酒店露台酒吧

位處竹灣海灘旁， 酒店依山而 建，入口處是一個露天酒吧，既 可遠眺無邊海洋，又可享受綠意 盎然的幽靜環境，氣氛舒適。

山と海の美しい景色を楽しみながらお酒が飲めるこのバーはおすすめスポット。

路環竹灣馬路

5 全景咖啡廳

唯一遠離市區的五星級酒店，咖 啡廳可享受園林景色，不時推出 周日自助午餐及自助下午茶，吸 引不少家庭前來。一客軟硬適中 的木糠布甸，是葡撻以外馳名海 外的另一美食，廣獲好評。

郊外の緑に囲まれた5つ星ホテルのカフェで満喫するランチとティータイム。

路環黑沙馬路1918號澳門威斯汀度假酒店大堂

ACTIVITIES

6 路環小型賽車場

佔地近5萬平方米，賽道全長1.25 公里，寬8米，合乎國際賽事標 準，注重安全措施，管理亦具規 模。每年3至5月周日都會舉行各 項比賽，吸引逾百名車手參加。

数多くの国際レースが開催される国際安全基準を満たしたゴーカートサーキット。

路環石排灣

7 威斯汀度假酒店高爾夫球場

全澳唯一的18洞71標準桿高爾夫 球場，球道由建築師Hiroshi Ikeda 設計，背靠路環山及面臨南中國 海，平日每位客人18洞果嶺費為 澳門幣950元；酒店可為不諳高 球的住客提供教練指導，運動過 後還可享受其他健身設施。

南シナ海とコロアネの丘を見渡す、18 ホールのゴルフコース。

路環黑沙馬路1918號

ATTRACTIONS

8 石排灣郊野公園

前身為農場，如今是境內最大片自然綠化區，內有登山徑、單車 徑及動物園等多項設施，旁邊還 有免費入場的土地暨自然博物 館，由中央送贈的兩頭大熊貓， 亦將於今年年底入住大熊貓館。

マカオ最大の多目的公園。トレッキングや サイクリングコース、そして動物園もある。

路環石排灣大馬路

9 九澳七苦聖母小堂

澳門雖有多間教堂，卻以這間教 堂外型最突出，猶如一個露營帳 篷的三角形建築，共有15扇門。 其實這裡曾與痲瘋病院相鄰，是 一所專為病人而設的天主教教 堂。留意正門前的十架上有一個 高2.6米、造型優美的耶穌受難 像，是出自米蘭的雕塑家。

かつてハンセン病患者のために建設さ れた教会。十字架像が一際目を引。

路環九澳聖母馬路

10 天后古廟

除了出名的媽閣廟之外，位於路 環的天后古廟同樣歷史悠久。踏 上石階走進廟內，除了手工細緻 的翡翠玉觀音，還供奉關帝、財 帛星君、魯班、華陀諸神。廟內 還有一輛「古董救火車」。

ひすい製の観音菩薩像で有名な寺院。 清朝後半の消防車が展示されている 。

民國馬路盡頭

蘇州精品

游畢上海、杭州之後，很多人會順道拜訪蘇 州這個充滿歷史文化氣息的小城，一探著名 的古老園林。最近蘇州新開幕的一間酒店卻 擺脫了古城的歷史氛圍，改走型格路線。這 間個性化的蘇哥利酒店，提供225間別具一格 的時尚客房，單看酒店大堂的裝潢便猶如走 進時尚餐廳酒吧，房間內的衛生間更設計成 現代化的園林。在蘇州要吃到正宗外國菜並 不容易，因此不要錯過酒店一樓的「101法國 餐廳」，這裡採用有機食材和傳統法國烹調技 法，是蘇州目前最道地的法國餐館。

蘇州市平江區喬司空巷27-33號蘇哥利酒店

世博尋澳門

世博在上海正舉行得如火如荼，其中澳門館可說 是甚受歡迎的展館之一。以玉兔宮燈為設計靈感 的澳門館，頭、尾部分都是充滿氫氣的氣球，外 層是可以不斷變換顏色的雙層玻璃薄膜，內裡展 示了12分鐘影片，介紹澳門400多年的歷史。參 觀過澳門館，不要錯過城市最佳實踐區案例館之 一，按照澳門百年當舖「德成按」原型比例複製 的建築。世博園區的德成按和澳門德成按一樣， 同樣展出著名武俠小說家金庸先生的作品珍藏， 如金庸使用過的刻有射鵰英雄傳圖樣的大屏風， 勾起武俠小說迷的共同回憶。

www.2010expomacao.gov.mo

東京的周末

Catherine Shaw 是長駐東京的自由撰稿人

星期五夜晚，我會先到酒吧 Legato（圓山町3-6， E Space Tower 15樓；+81 3 5784 2121）喝一杯 dirty martini，接著去開花屋（圓山町23-7；+81 3 3770 0878）吃晚餐、喝清酒，這間居酒屋不算有名， 卻可以品嘗到築地市場最新鮮的生魚片，還有讓 人一吃就上癮的黑芝麻冰淇淋。

星期六早晨起床後，一路慢跑到下北澤非常受 歡迎的 Bear Pond（世田谷區下北澤2-36-12；+81 3 5454 2486），曾經在紐約受訓的 Katsu Tanaka 會為 客人奉上全東京最好喝的 espresso 咖啡，入口之 後，早晨的睡意馬上消失無蹤。下午的行程是到 Arts & Science（南青山5-3-8，101 Palace Miyuki；+81 3 3400 1009）購物，這裡有些讓人覺得非買不可的 好東西，例如純白襯衫、手工皂、蠟燭或者日本 傳統的亞麻絲足袋（襪子），都是引領風潮的時尚 設計師 Sonya Park 所設計。至於晚餐和飲料，就到 知名的 New York Grill（西新宿3-7-1-2，東京柏悅酒 店；+813 5322 1234），享受絕佳的視野、入口即化 的仙台嫩牛排、以及在電影《迷失東京》出現過 的現場爵士樂演奏。

星期天一大早，先去當地寺廟的跳蚤市場尋找 二手和服和古董石雕像，再去 Two Rooms（北青山 3-11-7，AO Building 5樓；+81 3 3498 0002）吃一頓漫 長而慵懶的早午餐，因為可以在雅致的露台上享 用十分美味的生蠔、軟殼蟹和血腥瑪麗。吃飽喝 足了，我就前往 Axis Building（港區六本木5-17-1； +81 3 3587 2781），瀏覽別致的日本陶器、家具和 書。我特別喜愛同一棟建築地下室的 NUNO（+81 3 3582 7997），這裡所展示的日本紡織品精美絕倫， 令人愛不釋手。

上海夜生活

DINING

曾為英國名廚Gordon Ramsey 工作過的Jason Atherton 最 近在上海開設Table No.1 餐廳（毛家园路1-3 号；+86 21 6080 2918）。充滿工業感覺的室 內設計，配合美味的菜式如焦糖墨魚汁拌 油炸碎面包洋蔥泥、五花肉及荔枝雪葩配 玫瑰花茶乳脂松糕，令人回味。

DRINKING

璞麗酒店的長吧（常德 路1号；+86 21 3203 9999）有一排 长达32米的吧檯，客人可在這裡一邊享用 早餐或雞尾酒，一邊透過落地玻璃欣賞戶 外的水池景色。

CLUBBING

在上海想看一場百老匯 歌舞劇， 就一定要去Chinatown （ 乍浦路471号；+8621 6258 2078）。這個以 百老匯风格和紅磨坊情調的現場歌舞表演 為招牌的夜總會，重現上海昔日作為東方 巴黎的流金歲月。

完美空間

由MAD 事务所在北京一条老胡同中建造的胡同泡泡系列第一个作品，這個外表圓 潤如金属泡泡的《32 号泡泡 》為所在的胡同提供了一个公共衛生间和通向屋頂平台的樓梯。

北京北兵马司胡同32号小院里

Text by Rebecca Lo Photography by Gary Mak Translation by Amanda Mao, Takako Whilden

A trio of luxury wellness experiences set new Macanese standards for pampered indulgence – with a few twists

Spa rituals are essential to a look-good, feel- great way of life. They are both a way to indulge the self and simultaneously battle the ravages of time. Some massages, scrubs and facials have been clinically proven to help women (and some men) look younger by sloughing off dead cells and reinvigorating blood circulation. A lifetime regime of treatments may mean a longer, more enjoyable one. With more luxurious spa and wellness choices available than ever before, Macau’s beauty rituals can now be experienced by day trippers in between visits to historical sites.

Over at the brand spanking new Wynn Encore, indulgence is a mantra. In keeping with the exclusivity of the VIP tower, you could literally while away the day in one of The Spa Encore’s eight spacious havens. Designed by Las Vegas-based Wynn Design & Development senior vice president of design Jerry Beale, the facility includes a fitness centre with advanced kinesis wall, TechnoGym cardio equipment, pilates balls and yoga offerings, along with a personal trainer for those who want a more targeted workout.

Walking into the citrine crystal clad reception is a step down from the hyper- reality of Wynn Encore. Conceived as a trio of circular interlocking rooms, the Private Spa Relaxation Suite has a dedicated space for zoning out, sipping tea and soaking your weary feet in scented water; one devoted to water therapies; and a final sub-room for treatments like the signature synchronised four hand massage. In that, two therapists use healing, detoxing and stimulating Neem and Triphala massage oils each concentrate on one side, mimicking each other’s movements as they work from your toes to shoulder. The overall feeling is like floating on a cloud – despite slightly jarring but infrequent unsynched touches.

Opened in early July along with the rest of the hotel, The Spa at Mandarin Oriental is part the shopping extravaganza that is One Central. MO’s legendary spa experiences can all be attributed to one man: former Mandarin Oriental Bangkok general manager Kurt Wachtveitl. His 42-year tenure saw the hotel win every hospitality award imaginable, and Wachtveitl himself was instrumental in the 1973 merger between The Oriental in Bangkok and The Mandarin in Hong Kong, forming today’s the Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group. He was honoured with an industry lifetime achievement award in 2006.

One of Wachtveitl’s many achievements was opening Asia’s first hotel spa to offer exceptional facilities with a vernacular touch. “When Burma (Myanmar), Cambodia and Laos were first open to tourism, the hotel facilities there were very basic,” said Wachtveitl in a 2007 interview from Bangkok. “The Oriental was a hub for people who flew in from all over the world, and then on to other Asian countries. The idea of a spa came about because we had to put vim and vigour into their bodies. Our spa was successful from day one.” Wachtveitl continues to contribute to MOHG’s development as one of its Ambassadors, travelling the globe to imbue the brand’s culture and philosophy to staff in newly opened properties.

In Macau, there is a nearly tangible sense of place that is a hallmark of every MOHG property. Designed by a long time MOHG collaborator, Singapore’s LTW Designworks, the eight treatment rooms offer signature indulgences with the former Portuguese enclave – and its influences – in mind. Suites are divided into two sections: the vanity area and the larger treatment area with its beautiful sea views: Watch the upcoming international fireworks competition as you soak in a Jacuzzi bath. After unwinding, try either The Macanese Dragon or Spices of Portugal, two rituals that are tailored to how you feel on that particular day. These treatments are also configured to your particular elemental composition and as such should inspire deeper relaxation and better sleep – if that’s still a concern after all this spa-going.

Lastly, for more clinical results, look no further than Malo Clinic Health & Wellness, a sprawling one-stop spa for everything from teeth whitening to nutrition consultation. Think of it as Nip/Tuck plus and an argument for Macau as a “medi-tourism” destination. The brainchild of Lisbon-based Dr Paulo Malo, Malo is a globally respected health and wellness brand. “Our patients are about 50/50 male and female,” says Malo. “Everyone wants a beautiful smile. Women are more concerned about the nose and breasts, while men … may lose their teeth due to ageing and neglect. And creams do not treat wrinkles. Wrinkles are due to lack of moisture to the skin. Creams moisturise and make the grooves less noticeable, but creams don’t cure — they mask.”

Malo’s comprehensive approach is programmed into four specialised zones: oral rehabilitation and cosmetic dentistry; preventative and curative medicine; cosmetic anti-ageing; and spa and total beauty. Supplementing the zones is an acute unit, pharmacy and imaging labs, giving inner beauty a whole new meaning.

Text by Rebecca Lo Photography by Gary Mak Translation by Amanda Mao, Takako Whilden

喝茶的行家也許會爭辯，體驗一泡好茶的重要因 素，是否一定要佐以點心，才能喝出茶質的細微分 野，也才能帶出品茶的氛圍，但這些行家們卻無法 駁斥澳門擁有世界少數優質茶樓的事實。滲泡著懷 舊風情的茶樓，在葡國殖民時期，是一處撫慰鄉愁 的重要據點，讓澳門人閒聊、休息、取樂，沉浸在 美好生活當中。

早起慢跑、打完太極，不妨到龍華茶樓補充能 量。1962年起營業至今的龍華茶樓面臨提督馬路， 與紅街市對望，盤佔整個轉角街樓。挑高的空間 內，向上外翻的老式鐵框玻璃窗，不只能擋雨，還 能保持室內空氣流暢，老闆何明德深信這是享受一 壺好茶的必要條件。何明德從1976年開始投入這個 家族事業，在老父何逢年事已高之後，他便全 面接掌了龍華茶樓。被客人暱稱為龍哥的何明 德，總是笑臉迎人，在客人買單時以老舊的算 盤替客人結算帳單，行動緩慢的何老太太經常 站在他後面，嘴裡嘀咕著員工記得該做的事。

「我爸爸開始做時，茶樓是大清早5點開始 營業，」何明德無奈地聳肩表示，「現在，我們7 點開張，下午2點打烊，我習慣早睡，雖然每日 營業，但整個下午都是自己的時間，可以做完其 他差事之外，還能打點採購的事。」茶樓開幕時 的裝修風格混雜著清朝傢具和1950、60年代的 北歐當代古典風。在環繞著房子的陽台上，一 只魚缸養著鮮艷鯉魚，有如自成一格的小型中 式花園。當傳菜升降機在嗚嗚作響，表示樓上 廚房已準備上菜時，原來忙著揮刀斬雞，將茶 樓的招牌菜蔥油雞上碟的正是何明德。他每日 從隔壁的紅街市買回現宰鮮雞，保證肉質鮮 嫩，再鋪上薑絲與嫩蔥，讓人看了食指大動。

「填海之前，我們常到街對面去釣魚，」 何明德回憶道，「在茶樓風光時，我們有50到 60名夥計，名氣大到香港的大廚都請得到。現 在競爭太激烈了，到處是大酒店、大餐廳。我 們只剩下6名員工，忙的時候，我自己的小孩會 來幫忙，但我不確定他們肯不肯接手經營。」

再往南一點的大龍鳳茶樓裡，5名粵劇伴 奏正在為下午要表演的曲目調音。位於滿載歷 史風情的十月初五街上，雖然現任董事經理陳 慕蓮在1970年代才接手經營，但茶樓本身已有 超過70年的歷史，「這裡是老社區，生意不好 做，」她解釋道，「最近，我加入不少創意， 客人來我們茶樓可吃到傳統的廣式點心，也可 品嚐到吸引年輕人的新式點心。」菜單上除了 得獎的大包，還有海鮮素菜內餡的酥炸麵包。

陳女士很自豪能提供一處開放演唱時段， 讓一些熱愛粵劇的專業或新血能吊吊嗓子的地 方。每天下午3點到晚上7點，她雇請專業樂 師為他們伴奏。餐廳空出一角作為曲藝會專用 舞台，樂師坐在演唱者對面，方便雙方眼神交 流。舞台上穿著T恤、牛仔褲的老人，竟是不 可一世的中國皇帝與愛妃…這種場景或許令人 感到錯愕，不過只要閉上眼睛，你的腦海裡 就會浮現陳凱歌電影裡的畫面。整場表演就數 吹笛子的樂師最辛苦，他一人負責所有吹奏樂 器，隨著戲曲的需求，靈巧地轉換笛子、薩克 斯風、喇叭吹奏，真是不簡單。

日暮黃昏，肚子餓的話需要份量足、能飽 肚的食物配茶，這時就該到議事亭前地的龍記 酒家。自1945年執業至今，這家三層樓的大型 餐廳可以容納各種類型的觀光團，卻不提供固 定的配菜套餐。當你雙眼在冗長的菜單裡逡巡 時，不妨放輕鬆欣賞一下打著蝴蝶領結、衣著 光鮮的服務生，或是天花板上華麗的威尼斯枝 形吊燈、再度流行的老式霓虹綠招牌、樓梯前 的紅色亞麻布地氈、磨石地板、整面的書牆。 雖然龍記所在的大樓已出售準備重建，前景未 卜，但它仍然是一處值得光臨，藉一杯茶緬懷 舊日美好時光的好地方。

お茶で蘇る古き良き過去の記憶

茶の専門家は、世界で茶と言えばマカオだと断言 する。マカオ人にとって茶とは、朝から晩まで茶屋 に集っておしゃべりに没頭していた古き良き時代 の思い出の象徴でもある。

紅街市を望む1962年創業の龍華茶樓は、清朝 と1900年代中頃の北欧を基調にしたインテリアが 美しく、料理には隣接する紅街市で毎朝仕入れる 新鮮な食材を使っている。

中国への返還前は何十人といた従業員も、最 近は大手レストランやホテルとの競争が激化して いるため、数人に削減し、人手不足の時には家族 でその場をしのぐ。

広東オペラを上演する大龍鳳茶樓は、十月初 五街にあり、創業は70年以上も前にさかのぼる。競 争が激しいこの地域では、昔ながらのメニューに 新しいものを取り入れるなど、若年層の客を獲得 するために趣向を凝らさないと生き残れない。

夕暮れ時にはセナド広場に面した龍記酒家が お勧め。1945年創業のこの3階建てレストランは、ツ アーの団体客も大歓迎だ。料理を待っている間、ベ ネチアグラスのシャンデリアやレトロ調のインテリ アが目を楽しませてくれる。再開発地区に指定され ており、存続が危ぶまれているので、今のうちにほ んの休憩にでも立ち寄ってみてはいかがかな。

NOSTALGIC NIBBLES

以一杯茶釋放心裡點點滴滴的舊日情懷：

龍華茶樓

三盞燈提督市北街3號

龍記酒家

議事亭前地7B號

酥炸鮮蝦多士、紅燒乳鴿、魚翅羹

大龍鳳茶樓

十月初五街127-129號

順德鮫魚球、懷舊鴨腳扎、蛋黃蓮蓉酥

Calendar

1 FIVB World Grand Prix

This year’s FIVB grand Prix is a cut-throat battle between 12 teams over three weeks. Watch as China, Brazil, the Netherlands and the Dominican Republic jockey for a position at the august 29 Ningbo finals.

Macau Forum +853 2870 4011

2 Hip-Hop Little Stories

France’s accrorap Dance Company mounts its ingenious blend of hip-hop, break dance, arobatics and contemporary dance. urban body language complemented by eloquent narration rounds out a show not to be missed.

Macao Cultural Centre +853 2870 0699

3 Habitar Portugal

After a 10-day london run, Habitar Portugal finally arrives in Macau, a showcase of awe-inspiring recent Portuguese architecture in- and outside the country.

Of snow, gold and sky blue

The 55 pieces of hand-painted porcelain works by acclaimed Chinese-French painter Chu teh-Chun were on display at the Manufacture Nationale de sèvres in France between 2008 and ‘09. the show demonstrates Chu’s adoption of Eastern and Western techniques, and flawlessly evokes the art of the Yuan Dynasty.

Macao Art Museum +853 8791 9814

Macau International Fireworks Display Contest

Fireworks were once one of Macau’s three biggest handicrafts industries, so naturally the fireworks display has become an annual event celebrating the city’s cultural heritage. as participating teams from all over the globe light up the sky, why not take a snapshot and sign up for the photo contest?

Macau Tower waterfront +853 2831 5566

Around Town

High Life

With big international projects drawing global staff to the city, hotel-managed residences like The Residences & Apartments at Mandarin Oriental, Macau are in demand. The Mandarin expected to launch its 92 residences – ranging from 700 to 5,000 square feet – after the hotel’s re-opening. All suites come with a stunning view of Nam Van Lake, Macau Tower and Taipa Island, as well as access to the hotel’s services and facilities. And with links to One Central Macau and MGM Grand Macau, residents will have all they need for a high-quality life at their doorstep.

Star Gazing

If you’re a fan of the dear departed Michael Jackson, you’ll probably want to visit the MJ Gallery at Ponte 16 Resort Macau. Forty items are on display ahead of a September Julien Auction of the King of Pop’s memorabilia – which includes the rhinestone glove Jackson sported when he debuted the Moonwalk.

Show and Tell

A Whiff of Summer

Beauty may be in the eye of the beholder but it can be found in the nose too. tease your olfactory curiosity with summer’s most evocative new scents.

Clockwise from left: Chance Eau Tendre by Chanel (MOP575) Shop 1117b, level 1, the Shoppes at Four Seasons; Gucci by Gucci Pour Homme Sport EDT (MOP540) new yaohan Macau; Acqua di Gioia by Giorgio Armani (MOP540) new yaohan Macau; Van Cleef & Arpels Féerie EDP (MOP876) Unit 24, Phase ii, Wynn retail esplanade; Opium Eau de Toilette by YSL (MOP550) new yaohan Macau

Five-Star Diy

Golden Medley

Pousada de São tiago’s chef de cuisine Hector costa dishes up the family paella

There are as many verions of paella as there are families along Spain’s mediterranean coastline. a rice dish that boasts the bounty of the sea, paella has roots in Valencia and its region’s bounty of crimson tomatoes, succulent chorizo and plump mussels. at Pousada de São tiago’s la Paloma, paella is one of the Spanish restaurant’s most popular signature dishes.

Of catalonian descent, chef de cuisine Hector costa hails from near barcelona. “Paella is a very traditional dish,” costa explains. “everyone remembers his grandmother’s paella. Usually, this is served as a heavy main course for Sunday lunch, after tapas or a salad. In Spain, we have big lunches that go for two or three hours, then dinner for three or four hours. Every day! and paella offers a nice mix of seafood, meat and vegetables with rice. We eat a lot of rice in Spain.”

Three ingredients make la Paloma’s paella a winner: rice, olive oil and saffron. costa never washes his rice before cooking, to ensure each grain is distinct as it simmers to al dente perfection, and light Spanish oil balances the strong flavours. lastly, Spanish saffron for the dish to achieve its sunny yellow hue. “Some use more tomatoes, others use more saffron,” shrugs costa. “but paella should never be spicy.”

Paella Valenciana

1 Sauté minced onions and garlic, chopped green bell pepper, chopped tomatoes and squid. Season with paprika in extra virgin olive oil using a classic shallow paella pan. 2 Sauté pieces of chicken and jumbo shrimp until 60% cooked. 3 Simmer rice and fish stock (double the volume of rice) for five minutes. 4 return the other ingredients to the pan, add salt, pepper and a touch of saffron. 5 bake in a 200°c oven for 35 minutes. 6 add diced chorizo, cooked red beans, clams and mussels to the pan, mix well and return to oven for last five minutes. 7 remove from oven and serve after resting up to 5 minutes or until all the liquid is absorbed.

** to drink, costa recommends cava, a Spanish sparkling white wine, or a dry white such as Verdejo. being a red wine fan, though, he also likes his paella with a Spanish cabernet Sauvignon.

Brief Encounter

Dancing Water

What are your respective roles in the show?

Faye Leung: I play the romantic role of the Princess who’s locked up by the Serpent Queen, waiting for rescue.

Ana Arroyo: I’m the ruthless Serpent Queen, also the stepmother who was bent on getting rid of the Princess.

Jesko von den Steinen: I’m the courageous Stranger who goes on an adventure to save the Princess.  

What are the difficulties you encounter when performing in a water-based show?

L: I was never a swimmer and I feared heights. But thanks to the seven-week training in Belgium, I learnt high diving and “flying” high up in the air, and I’ve got myself a diving license too. To dance on the surface of water is a great challenge, but I’m trying to overcome it. I’m open to different kinds of performances, such as stage drama or contemporary dance – I don’t want to limit myself to ballet.

A: I’ve always loved diving so taking part in a water- based show isn’t an issue. But the high-dive platforms really did scare me a bit.

Now that you’ve relocated to Macau, what’s your impression of the city so far?

S: Macau consists of three distinct areas – Macau Peninsula, Taipa and Coloane – and each offers an individual experience of its own. I like the peace in Coloane and I also enjoy a drink or two at Altira. It won’t be long before Macau transforms into a cosmopolitan city.

A: It’s a shame that I’ve been too busy practising that I haven’t got the time to see much of Macau yet.

How is the training regimen in Macau different to that in Belgium?

A: Franco Dragone’s artistic proposition places heavy emphasis on the production process. While in Belgium we focused on physical training, in Macau we were able to have a cultural exchange and team training. We were given the opportunity to suggest ways to cast the characters – it’s all very interactive.

Is Cirque du Soleil’s Zaia your competition?

S: Many in our troupe have worked at Cirque du Soleil, including Dragone and me. They’re our friends, not competitors. There has to be various kinds of entertainment programmes for Macau to become a top-class entertainment city, and I hope The House of Dancing Water will bring the local entertainment industry to a new height.

Profile

Faye Leung: Born in Shanghai, Leung was Hong Kong Ballet’s Principal Dancer in 2001, winning the Hong Kong Dance Award in 2008.

Ana Arroyo: Madrid native Arroyo is known for her blend of ballet and flamenco. She has worked with Joaquín Cortés and Cristobal Reyes. Jesko von den Steinen: Raised in Canada by German parents, von den Steinen starred in Saltimbanco.

The House of Dancing Water launches September 17 at 8pm (Wednesday through Sunday), with 5pm shows Friday through Sunday.

www.thehouseofdancingwater.com

SPA STATS

The Spa Encore

Wynn Macau, Rua Cidade de Sintra, NAPE +853 2888 9966

Specialties include: Synchronised four-hand massage with two therapists

The Spa at Mandarin oriental

Avenida Dr Sun Yat Sen, NAPE, +853 8805 8888

Specialties include: The Macanese Dragon body scrub and massage, spices of Portugal head massage and body exfoliation

Malo Clinic Health & Wellness

Level 5, Grand Canal Shoppes, Shops 3013A & 3015, The Venetian® Macao-Resort-Hotel, Estrada da Baía de N. Senhora da Esperança, S/N, Taipa +853 8862 2688

Specialties include: Oral rehabilitation and cosmetic dentistry, preventative and curative medical care, cosmetic anti-ageing, spa and total beauty, lifelong wellness

Weekender Tokyo

Friday nights start with martinis at Legato (Maruyamacho 3-6, E Space Tower 15F, +81 3 5784 2121) followed by dinner and sake at Kaikaya (Maruyamacho 23-7,+81 3 3770 0878), a hidden gem izakaya serving the freshest sashimi and addictive black sesame seed ice-cream.

Saturday mornings call for a brisk jog to Shimokitazawa’s seriously hip Bear Pond (2-36-12 Kitazawa Setagaya, +81 3 5454 2486), where New York-trained barista Katsu Tanaka serves the best espresso in the capital. Afternoon calls for shopping at Arts & Science (101 Palace Miyuki, 5-3-8 Minami Aoyama, +81 3 3400 1009) for their emporium-style treasure trove of must-haves like hand-milled soaps, candles and Japanese linen-silk tabi (socks) – all curated by leading fashion stylist Sonya Park. Dinner and drinks follow at the Park Hyatt Tokyo’s iconic New York Grill (3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, +81 3 5322 1234).

Sundays start at a temple flea market in search of vintage kimono and antique stone statues. A lazy brunch is at Two Rooms (5F AO Building, 3-11-7 Kita-Aoyama, +81 3 3498 0002) because they serve incredible oysters, soft- shell crab and Bloody Marys on a sleek outdoor terrace. Recharged, I head for Axis Building (5-17-1 Roppongi, Minato, +81 3 587 2781) to browse their super-chic collection of Japanese pottery and furniture. I especially love NUNO’s (+81 3 3582 7997) exquisite Japanese textiles.

Shanghai Afterhours

Dining

Breaking away from Gordon Ramsey’s Maze in London is Table No. 1 by Jason Atherton (1-3 Maojiayuan Road, +8621 6080 2918). Its industrial chic interiors are complemented by signature dishes including carmelised squid ink croutons and onion purée, slow-cooked pork belly and rose tea trifle with lychee granite.

Drinking

Check out the outstanding wine cellar over aperitifs at Long Bar (1 ChangDe Road, +8621 3203 9999). The elegant, extremely long counter — hence the name — does triple duty as concierge for The PuLi Hotel and Spa, a grab-and-go breakfast bar and a place to chill while gazing out at the reflecting pond beyond double high windows.

Clubbing

Cancan girls with feather boas and a ‘30s-era Shanghai vibe makes Chinatown (471 Zhapu Road, +8621 6258 2078) the hottest show in town. The best of Paris of the East is distilled into a high-kicking cabaret, vaudeville and crooning Broadway-meets-Vegas mash-up.

Text by Rebecca Lo Photography by Gary Mak Translation by Amanda Mao, Takako Whilden

三家新成立的奢華理療康體中心，讓您忘了按摩的痛楚，享受無可比擬的驕奢與快活

不論想要光鮮亮麗的外貌，或奢華的生活感受，水療護理無 疑是一石兩鳥的最佳方式，也是解壓放鬆、對抗歲月催老的 活力戰役。醫學上已證實透過按摩、去角質、臉部按摩等方 式，可除去老死的細胞、活絡血液循環，讓女性保持年輕。 長期進行養生護理不僅能延長壽命，更能讓你享受人生。隨 著裝潢奢華的spa芳療養生館愈來愈多，澳門的美之巡禮， 讓穿梭在古蹟間的旅人，也能偷空輕鬆體驗一番。

新開幕的永利澳門萬利酒店，將水療護理從一種耽溺享 受，升級為聖潔儀式。位於貴賓專屬樓層的理療康體中心， 保有絕對的私密性，在每間寬敞的私人理療套房裡，獨享五 彩燈光幻照出的按摩水池，細嚼療程間供應的新鮮水果， 時光悠然靜止，宛如置身天堂。1,150平方米的空間，由拉 斯維加斯永利集團設計發展公司設計部資深副總裁Jerry Beale 操刀，健身室配備智慧型全方位肌肉鍛鍊系統Kinesis Wall、TechnoGym心肺鍛鍊儀器、活力健身球、瑜珈課程， 並有個人治療師，專業指導想局部雕塑身材的客人。

走進理療中心，迎面的黃水晶鋪面的櫃台與四周以黃 銅、皮革、原木佈置，匠心獨具的設計，重新定義了「奢 華」二字。這場視覺饗宴一路舖展，進入康體理療中心，再 度令人摒氣凝息。相連的三間圓形理療室，外室設有大型沙 發躺椅，讓身攬蓬鬆軟茸浴袍的客人，完全鬆懈放空。中 室為一間水療室，設有蒸汽浴室、桑拿室，以 及單一按鈕控制的按摩水療浴缸。內室即是療程 室，偌大空間讓兩名治療師同時進行聞名的四手 按摩，使用印度苦楝樹和 Triphala 精油達到治 療、排毒、活化的效果。兩名治療師以對襯的手 法同步進行，讓人如置身雲端般舒暢。

剛在7月開幕的東方文華酒店，其療理中心 就位在設計傑出的購物中心壹號廣場。文華東 方成立傳奇的水療中心要歸功一位紳士：曼谷 文華東方酒店前總經理 Kurt Wachtveitl。這位 在文華東方任職42年的酒店管理高層，2006 年獲亞太飯店投資會議頒予終身成就獎，其重 要成就之一就是創立亞洲第一間酒店水療中心， 提供住客更具特色的服務。

「緬甸、柬甫寨、寮國剛開放觀光時，飯店 的設施還相當簡陋，」2007年 Wachtveitl 在曼 谷受訪時表示，「文華東方酒店是全球旅客旅游 亞洲的門戶，為了令旅客活力充沛，我萌生成立 水療中心的想法，而且一開始就大獲成功。」

澳門文華東方在集團耀眼的標誌下，8間理 療套房的水療中心，均深具葡萄牙殖民期的濠江 風情。套房分為兩部分，更衣、淋浴、蒸汽、梳 妝位於一區，另一區為擁有臨海景觀的理療區； 想到可以泡在按摩浴缸，欣賞即將展開的煙火大 賽，的確令人神往！建議試試「濠江龍體驗」或 「葡國情懷」兩種療程，理療師可根據你當天的

身心狀況，為你將組成身體能量的風火水土四大 元素重新調節，幫助你放鬆情緒、改善睡眠。

不過如果你要找的是醫療等級的水療中心， 那麼 MALO CLINIC Health & Wellness 是絕佳 的選擇。這間由里斯本牙齒整型先鋒 Dr Paulo Malo 創辦的整全健康中心，已成為橫跨全球五 大洲的品牌。「我們中心的客人大約男女各佔一 半，」Malo 博士解釋道：「每個人都想要擁有 迷人的微笑，女性比較在乎鼻子與胸部；至於 男性，可能在老化與疏於照顧的情況下，他們 的牙齒會較易脫落。另外，不管外面的說法如 何，乳液不可能撫平皺紋。皺紋是因皮膚缺乏 水分所引起，乳液只能滋潤皮膚、讓臉上的紋 路較不明顯，絕對不能消除皺紋。」

這間面積8,500平方米的整全健康中心幾乎 包辦所有關乎健康美容的項目。休憩室以灰、 白為主色調，共分口腔修復與美容、預防與醫 療照護、抗老化美容，以及水療美容；除此之 外，還包括急診處、藥局、顯影實驗室。

心地よい痛み

古い角質を取り除き、血液の循環を改善するスパ のトリートメントは、女性の若返りに効果があると 実証されている。人は長生きしながら、人生をより 楽しみたいものである。

ウィン・エンコアのスパでは8つのコースを用 意しており、一日中くつろげる。フィットネスセンタ ーでは専任トレーナーも指名することができる。

スパ内には、ラウンジ、ウォーターセラピーが 利用できるセントラルルーム、そして、スパ自慢の マッサージが満喫できるメインルームがあり、まる で雲の上を浮かんでいるような気分にしてくれる。

アジア初のホテルスパをオープンしたのはマ ンダリン・オリエンタル・ホテルだ。

植民地時代の懐かしさを漂わせるスパには、 シャワーとスチームルームを完備した脱衣所兼シ ャワールームと海が一望できるトリートメントエリ アがある。

医療効果の高いスパをお探しなら、歯のホワイ トニングから美容手術、そしてスパまで何でも完備 したマロ・クリニックがおすすめ。男性女性関係な く、人は誰しも美しい笑顔を求めていると語るのは ポルトガル出身の院長。

院内は白とグレーを記著にしたおしゃれでモ ダンな雰囲気で、救急設備、薬局、イメージング設 備も完備している。

SPA STATS

萬利理療康體中心

澳門外港填海區仙德麗街

特色服務：四手同時按摩

文華東方香薰理療中心

澳門新口岸孫逸仙大馬路

特色服務：「濠江龍體驗」全身去角 質按摩、「葡國情懷」頭部按摩與全 身去角質

威尼斯人度假村酒店5樓大運河購物 中心3013A&3015號鋪，澳門路氹 金光大道望德聖母灣大馬路

特色服務：口腔修復與美容、預防 與醫療照護、抗老化美容、水療美 容、養生保健

Text by Hey Jude Translation by TC Li

Coming off the success of a show at the packed Taipei Arena, Rainie Yang soars to new career heights

If you’ve watched enough Taiwanese television you’ll immediately recognise the characteristic childlike smile and demeanour that belie Rainie Yang’s actual age. But at 26, Yang has been a regular on Taiwan’s entertainment circuit for a decade, making her showbiz debut in 2000 as a member of the girl band 4 in Love. In 2005 Yang released her first solo album and her career began to take off.

A popular and versatile artist, Yang owes much of her success to a positive attitude. Showbiz is not for the faint-hearted and Yang’s zeal, vigour and tenacity are overwhelming. “It’s got to do with my family upbringing,” explains Yang. “My parents separated when I was in high school and my sister and I lived with my mother. My mother worked very hard to put food on the table and I want to pay her back as best as I can. We’re very close and she now manages my finances. My mother and sister are the reason I work my fingers to the bone.”

With numerous hit TV dramas under her belt, Yang has an eye for good scripts. “I usually pour through the scripts and see if I’m really keen on playing a role. If I’m not interested in the part I’d rather not play it as I have to like the character to really devote myself to it.

“I’ve played various roles and every one of them has had a little bit of me in them. Xiao Hua in Miss No Good had my daftness, Mo Mo in ToGetHer was a stay-at-home who tended to read too much into things, and Chen Bao Zhu in Hi My Sweetheart was rather cranky and saucy – which I am, though I don’t whack people’s heads.”

Yang understands that a good script without good casting doesn’t make for strong TV ratings. “I’ve been lucky. I got along with all the actors I worked with,” she says. “Take Show Luo in Hi My Sweetheart, which was filmed on short notice as the deadline was pushed back half a year. Show and I were able to bond at the overseas filming locations, partly because we’re alike in that we take our work seriously.

“Jiro Wang, with whom I worked on ToGetHer, has a public persona that’s very different to his real, off-screen self. He may look distant and a bit standoffish in public, but he’s really an amiable and phlegmatic person. I felt comfortable around him.

“In Miss No Good, I mainly worked with Wilber Pan. We’ve known each other since back when I debuted as a singer and he a host on Channel V. We had a lot of fun. It was his first experience as an actor and sometimes he’d blame himself when he made a mistake and we had to reshoot, but he wouldn’t lash it out at other people.

“Last but not least, Mike He and I were co-stars in Devil Beside You and Why Why Love, and we also worked on some TV commercials and music videos together. We’re good friends and that makes working together easier. But he doesn’t like to be interrupted when he’s reading the script. He could have memorised the script backwards but he’d still have his nose in it on the set. I like to familiarise myself with the script the day before and relax on the filming day. But when I chat to Mike, he wouldn’t heed me.”

With the TV dramas’ high ratings also came the popularity of the theme songs sung by Yang and then a concert at Taipei Arena – a synonym for success to many Taiwanese singers. “It’s like a dream,” admits Yang. “I couldn’t believe that I had my first proper concert at Taipei Arena. All five of my albums were predominantly slow songs; I wanted people to focus on my voice. But for my concert I wanted some action to create good vibes, to heat things up in between the slow song sections. The dance training and rehearsals in the run-up to the concert, though, was very taxing.”

With April’s Whimsical World shows in Taipei receiving rave reviews, Yang has set her sights on a global tour – assuming she finds a break in her other work, that is.

Coloane

As the newly reclaimed area in Cotai buzzes with activity, this southern strip of the city remains largely untouched. A jaunt to the countryside, beach or golf course is jazzed by quaint cafés and authentic Portuguese influences.

Eat

1 Restaurante Fernando

Rustic European interiors define the vibe at this enduring favourite. Tuck into their suckling pig, marinated in Portuguese white wine overnight before it’s grilled to perfection, and served with a splash of lemon juice.

9 Praia de Hac Sa +853 2888 2264

Cliché, yes, but Portuguese egg tarts remain a must-try when in Macau. Despite an increase in space compared with its sister bakery on Rua da Tassara, the restaurant dishes up delectable food as usual – with a touch more variety.

105 Rua de Cordoaria, Coloane Village +853 2888 1851

3 Ristorante La Gondola

Wedged between Coloane and Hac Sa Beach at Cheoc Van, this Italian eatery draws customers not only for its panoramic seaview, but for its 13 different pastas and 8-minute pizzas cooked in a traditional oven. Combine great food and impeccable ambience and there’s no wondering why it’s so highly rated by punters.

Estrada de Cheoc Van, Coloane +853 2888 0156

Drink

4 Pousada de Coloane

Located near the Cheoc Van Beach, this hotel was built along the terrain of the mountain behind. The al fresco bar at the entrance is an ideal place for a drink while taking in the breathtaking seaview and greenery.

Estrada de Cheoc Van, Coloane +853 2888 2143

5 Café Panorama

Being the only five-star hotel café outside the city centre, Café Panorama promises a Sunday lunch buffet and afternoon tea set amid nature’s bounty. Make a mental note to try their creamy serradura.

Hotel Lobby, Westin Resort Coloane Macau, 1918 Estrada de Hac Sa, Coloane +853 8899 1020

Activities

6 Kartódromo de Coloane

Spanning an area of 50,000 square metres, with a 1.25-kilometre long track the circuit meets international safety standards and is the venue for annual championship races.

Seac Pai Van, Coloane +853 2888 2126

7 Macau Golf and Country Club

Designed by Japanese architect Ikeda Hiroshi and enveloped by the sea and mountains, this is Macau’s only 18 hole-71 par standard golf course. Beginners can try a crash course from the hotel’s instructors.

1918 Estrada de Hac Sa, Coloane +853 2887 1118

Attractions

8 Seac Pai Van Natural Park

This farm-turned-park is now Macau’s largest boasting trek and cycle paths and a zoo. If you skip the Natural and Agrarian Museum, be sure to make another visit at year’s end when two pandas will be relocated from China to the under- construction panda house.

Estrada de Seac Pai Van

9 Church of our Lady of Sorrows

Another of Macau’s remarkable churches, this triangular structure was built for leprosy sufferers in the neighbouring hospital back in the day. Also noteworthy? The 2.6-metre tall Crucifix at the main entrance.

Estrada de Nossa Senhora, Ká-Ho, Coloane

10 Old Tin Hau Temple

Alongside the widely known A-Ma Temple stands this decades-old one. Walk the stone steps into the temple, and notice the delicate jade statues of Guan Yin and others, and check out the late-Qing Dynasty firetruck.

End of Avenida da Republica