Xiamen’s historic sites and scenic beauty are suffused with a Zen-like aura of calm

By Christine Jalleh (Wow Team)
Translation by Amanda Mao

Known as the ‘Garden on the Sea’, Xiamen is possibly China’s best kept secret. With ferry rides to a picturesque island, a large botanical garden, one of Asia’s top hot-spring parks, tranquil lakes and international al fresco cafés, this port city’s gentle allure is hard to imagine… and then to resist.

For an east-coast Chinese city, you’ll be surprised to find life moves at a leisurely pace in Xiamen. A ferry ride to Gulangyu Island, its main attraction, reveals a green and hilly landscape dotted with elegant colonial buildings. Gulangyu is a glorious introduction to Xiamen, loved for its meandering streets leading to beautiful gardens like Shuzhuang Huayuan, former foreign consulates, a Roman Catholic church built in 1917, and sunset at the island’s highest point, Sunlight Rock.

Looking for a spot of sand? Hop on a RMB15 boat ride round the island to find the perfect beach for you. Back on the island at Lundu pier, take a taxi to Xiamen University (422 Siming South Road, Siming District, Xiamen), the first university in China founded by overseas Chinese. Facing the ocean at the foot of lush, green mountains, the campus is a paradise for the mind and the body. Ranked number 13 in China, this beautiful campus has 2.6 million square metres of landscaped grounds, a serene Lotus Lake, Chinese-style roofs atop modern buildings and old, red-brick dormitories. Definitely a place to be still.

Walk outside the university’s old gate and you’ll find Nanputuo Temple, revered for holding more than 50,000 Buddhist scriptures and the oldest Chinese Buddhist manuscript (translated about 2,000 years ago). Wander through the classical Chinese garden, the goldfish-filled lotus pond or the series of linked halls with lyrical names echoing those of the Forbidden City – ‘Hall of Prolonging Life’, ‘Garret of Heavenly Cookery’ and ‘Room of Wish Fulfilment’.

Stretching across Five Old Man Mountains, hundreds of statues including ‘Revered Three-Life-Cycle Buddha’, ‘Four Heavenly Kings’ and ‘Thousand-Handed Guanyin (Goddess of Mercy)’ stand resplendent at Nanputuo Temple. according to legend, a monk named Qin hao arrived in Xiamen during an epidemic in 686ad. armed with medicinal knowledge of herbs from the hills, he saved many a life and settled down in a hillside cave, from which bloomed the majestic temple of today.

Further up the mountain behind the temple is a Zen-like location with a breathtaking panorama of Xiamen harbour – the ultimate spot for yoga or tai chi sessions surrounded by mother nature at her serene best. after nourishing your soul, treat your body from a choice of over 100 dishes of healthful vegetables, beans, mushrooms, fungus and fruits prepared in true buddhist vegetarian style at nanputuo’s renowned vegetarian restaurant.

For a fascinating glimpse of military history, head to hulishan Fortress, a spectacular site of impressive gates and granite walls embodying the military styles of the Ming and Qing dynasties. Built in 1891, the fort occupies 13,000 square metres. a walk up the stone stairs brings you to a labyrinth of barracks and beautifully landscaped gardens, a fine place to wander at dusk in Xiamen.

For a lovely morning experience, get up early for the 10,000 Rock Botanical Garden, the first of its kind in China, situated in downtown Xiamen (Huyuan Lu, off Wenyuan Lu). Opened in 1960, the garden has rocks and charming trails winding among biodiversity-rich nurseries, with over 6,300 species of tropical and subtropical plants. Granite boulders inscribed with Chinese calligraphy are strewn across the picturesque hillocks that punctuate the site. Be sure to visit the Conifer Garden with over 80 species of pines, cypress and firs including sequoia and gingko, the Bamboo Path, the Rose Garden and the Palm Garden. Fulfil your floral fantasy in the Flower Exhibition Hall where over 1,000 species of flowers are displayed in blooming glory.

For the perfect ending to a relaxing holiday, a night’s stay at Riyuegu Hotsprings Resort (1,888 Fulian Road, Haicang District, Xiamen, +86 592 631 2222) is the order of the day with 40 themed pools to beautify, detoxify and rejuvenate your tired body. By the time you’re kneaded to nirvana, sipping a cup of char or soaking up the salty sea air, don’t be surprised if your lips utter a silent promise: “Can’t wait to be back, Xiamen.”

Slow living

The former Sofitel Plaza Xiamen has been relaunched as Pan Pacific Xiamen, with a refurbished lobby and improved in-room equipment. The hotel also features a premier executive club with butler service and full lounge privileges – a place to relax and recharge (19 Huibin Bei Road, Xiamen, + 86 592 507 8888).

Slow Eating

Gulangyu Island – Check out Naya Coffee (12 Lujiao Lu, +86 592 206 3588) in the former German consulate, for Western and Asian dishes or drinks in a relaxing café atmosphere. Enter seafood restaurants wisely, with an eye on the prices. Street food includes muar chee (steamed starchy rice paste rolled with peanuts), fish balls, crispy fried dishes, green bean pies, coconut pies or zongzi (rice dumplings).

Zhongshan Lu – There are excellent dim sum, teppanyaki-style seafood and local Fujian specialities at Lujiang Harbourview Hotel’s sixth-floor al fresco restaurant (54 Lujiang Road, Xiamen, +86 592 266 1383), with a nice view of Gulangyu Island at sunset. The peanut soup at The Sweet Peanut Shop (Huangzehe Huashengtang Dian) on Zhongshan Lu is a must-try.

Yuandang Lu – The cafés, bars and restaurants on the lakeside strip have patios and/or balconies with a view of Yuandang Lake.