The Street

Steeped in history, this tourism bright spot in Seoul is where Korean tradition meets the rest of the world

By Joshua Richman
Translation by Hsiaofen Peng

Evolving from its historical role of upper-crust neighbourhood to a hip street that specialised in traditional arts and antiques, insadong has morphed again into a popular hangout and tourist strip. The charm remains, however, as most buildings are under four storeys high – and seemingly protected by their skyscraping cousins that dominate seoul’s skyline. The tree-lined main street is open to one-way traffic on weekdays and closed off entirely on weekends, when it fills with people strolling along, shopping and seeing the sights. Many visitors come to explore the tendrilled, cobblestoned alleyways and look for hidden treasures.

Totoman

A dual role as a toy museum and a store explains the KRW1,000 entrance fee at Totoman, where model aircraft hang from the ceiling, legions of toy soldiers stand ready to march, and Ultraman is on full alert! It’s a little boy’s dream come true, and “almost everything” is for sale according to the owner.

169-2 Kwanhun-dong
+82 2 725 1756

Old Tea Shop

Korean screens, 20 varieties of tea and antique accents take a back seat to finch-sized birds in this tea shop. All the tables receive visits from these small chirping patrons, but to get a closer look sit near the fountain the songbirds sip from.

2/F 2-2 Kwanhun-dong
+82 2 722 5019

Coin & Stamp

This store is roughly the size of a taxi, but that has not stopped proprietor Ko Jen-sa from cramming it wall-to-wall with colourful Korean stamps. Serious coin collectors can peruse books of paper and coin currency or pick up some reasonably priced replicas.

14-1 Insadong
+82 2 735 5354

Sah Be

The Korean dress, hanbuk, inspires the women’s designs at this classy boutique. Exposed wooden beams and hardwood floors give a rustic feel to the long coats, skirts and vests for sale. Sah Be uses natural dyes in a wide variety of colours to cast the apparel in soft, soothing tones.

191-2 Insadong
+82 2 8751 2426

Knife Gallery

Don’t be spooked by the giant meat cleaver that welcomes visitors in the Knife Gallery’s downstairs entrance. The gallery educates by showing how carbon steel blades are made and showcases a dazzling array of swords, medieval weaponry and other hazardous instruments. Smaller knives can be bought.

192-11 Kwanhun-dong B1
+82 2 735 4431

Hotel Sae Rim

Nestling in a quiet alley near the heart of Insadong and charging the humble price of KRW31,000, Sae Rim is a decent lodging option. The rooms are on the small side, but those on the first floor have Korean mats rather than beds for an authentic sleeping experience.

192-17 Kwanhun-dong
+82 2 730 6585

Insa Korea

If you’re in a hurry to grab some keepsakes, check out Insa Korea. Numerous stalls and kiosks under one roof offer the usual items – paper fans, silk purses, carved curio boxes, tea sets – while mulberry paper products make for unique gifts. All the merchandise is made from very high quality materials.

43 Insadong
+82 2 734 1823

Son Pong Ah

The décor at Song Pong Ah restaurant is simple and rural, yet in contrast modern art hangs on the walls and pop music eases out of the speakers. Matching the atmosphere, the food and drink range from rice porridge to the latest trends in alcoholic and virgin beverages.

197-24 Kwanhun-dong
+82 2 733 7311