Bootmaking has given way to bohemia in a narrow lane in Metro Manila’s Cubao district

By Tara FT Sering
Translation by Hsiaofen Peng

Cubao shoe Expo, nicknamed Cubao X, is a narrow U-shaped street just two blocks from the araneta Center (Big Dome). Formerly known as the Marikina shoe Expo, it was lined with quality leather footwear outlets in the 70s until the rise of the supermalls in the 90s thinned out the crowds. However, a new set of tenants, lured by heavily discounted rent, infused new life into the strip. The street now pulses with a vibrant night scene thanks to restaurants, charming boutiques, art galleries and even an independent cinema. if there’s a theme running through Cubao X, it’s that all the outlets are a manifestation of their owners’ passions.

Bellini’s

One of Cubao X’s oldest tenants, this cozy restaurant serves up authentic Italian classics. Run by former papparazo Roberto Bellini and his Filipina wife Maria Luisa, it has gained cult status among Metro Manila’s pasta-loving foodies by word of mouth alone.
Shop 68-69; +63 2913 2550

Vintage Pop

Owner Bong Salaveria, who also works as a commercial director, mans the store but keeps odd hours, so serious lovers of all things retro-cool – from jukeboxes to collectible wind-up clocks and cool tees – are advised to make an appointment.
Shop 70; +63 918 500 3460

Mogwai

This bar/restaurant/screening room serves up thirst-quenching beer and cocktails alongside inventive Filipino dinner bites – such as grilled sole fillet smothered in capers – to a cinema-loving crowd. The carpeted-floor and beanbag-seated theatre on the second floor shows beloved classics, from some of Hollywood greatest hits to several more obscure arthouse films.
Shop 62-63; +63 2 913 1060

Sputnik Comic shop

Comic book aficionados can meet likeminded collectors at this quaint boutique that sells popular and hard-to-find comic books, graphic novels, action figures and designer toys. It’s not easy to miss this store: true to its theme of fantasy and imagination in ink or in plastic, the store’s façade is a surreal ‘drip’ installation by local sculptor Leeroy New.
Shop 60

Pablo gallery

Many of Cubao X’s regular nighttime trawlers belong to the local art crowd, so it’s little surprise that more than one art gallery thrives in the area. Pablo Gallery is perhaps the most well known, and its regular showings feature some of the most exciting contemporary works by young up-and-coming artists.
Shop 7; +63 2 440 8807

Karma

Short for Kaufman Auction Retro Modern Antiques, KARMA sells quirky vintage furniture from the 50s, 60s and 70s, from printed sofas, to designer lighting systems, to one-of-a-kind chairs. Keep your pockets well stocked or the plastic fully loaded – neither the funky furniture nor the superbly crafted décor comes cheap.
Shop 58; + 63 2 437 0748

The reading room

The spirit of funk is celebrated to the hilt in this little boutique of hard-to-find and often hand-made fashion knick-knacks – from bags to clothes and accessories. Items are collected from over 50 independent merchants, several of whom are emerging local designers.
Shop 39; +63 917 522 2100

Halo Organic Store and Cafe

Healthy eaters have found a haven at Halo, where most of the dishes are whipped up from organic ingredients. Light plates include vegetarian burgers made from organic banana pulp, lettuce, tomatoes and soya mayo, and cracker dips such as creamy moringga pesto dip. You can round off your meal with sugar-free desserts and a fix of wheatgrass cold tea.
Shop 11; +63 906 371 1710