cultural fusion

Macau’s native Portuguese talk about their lives, memories and hopes for the future

By Rebecca Lo, Translation by Amanda Mao and Takako Whilden
Photography by Gary Mak

CARLOS ALBERTOS DOS SANTOS MARREIROS
born 1957
Marreiros is truly a citizen of the world. His father descended from Spaniards who immigrated to Portugal in the early 17th century, while his mother is the daughter of a Portuguese father and a Chinese mother. He obtained his architecture degree in Lisbon before an internship in Germany and further studies in Sweden. Upon his return, he’s designed public buildings in Macau and the mainland, and specialises in historical preservation. He’s a tireless individual who lectures frequently and is active in organisations including the Macau Architects Association, where he’s president.

I was very happy growing up embracing two cultures. My father and grandfather were very cultivated Portuguese Catholics. I was educated to respect both Chinese and Western cultures. My father was a multifaceted man. He played in an orchestra, he loved to draw and he loved architecture. He was my hero.

When I was growing up, Macau was a mixture of Mediterranean and Chinese. It was fantastic! At any point on the peninsula, I could reach the sea. The city was covered with beautiful houses and villas; there was also a lot of traditional Chinese architecture. It was full of gardens. Then, in the first boom of the 70s, the high- rises started to shape Macau. As a teenager, we had our motorcycles and we had our roof parties. And Macau was full of pretty girls. Even though it was small, it was reasonably cosmopolitan. If we couldn’t find it in Macau, we could always find it in Hong Kong.

In the 90s, I was quite optimistic. My wife, my two kids and I decided to stay in Macau. Some of my friends went to Portugal, Brazil, Australia or Canada, but now they are back. I don’t mean everything is a bed of roses. Policy should be designed to improve the local people’s standard of life, in education and culture as well as in health and social issues. Prosperity focused only on gaming is risky – the economy should be diversified. Overall, it’s still a fantastic place. I want to live here until the end of my life.

JOÃO MANUEL DE MELO JORGE DE MAGALHÃES
born 1975
Magalhães grew up in both Lisbon and Macau, studying art and design at the University of Lisbon. He returned to join his parents’ publishing company Livros do Oriente for what was originally a three-month stint. That was six years ago. He’s now the design editor for the Macau Daily Times.

In the 80s, Macau was open and there was more air to breathe. I could see the water. People played mahjong and drank tea; some were speaking Portuguese and some Chinese. I remember seeing Chinese junks with their sails in the wind. I have to look for these things now.

Growing up, we only spoke Portuguese; I learned Cantonese through our maids and by watching TV. I look Chinese and feel that I’m between two cultures. When I went to university, I was considered a Chinese in Portugal – I even had some issues with customs.

After the handover, I haven’t noticed a big difference except that it’s more Chinese. The city is very international, and we have a lot of tourists and expats. But I hope it won’t lose its identity. I hope Macau won’t become a Disneyland for China.

ANA TERESA FARINHA GOMES FERREIRA
born 1984
Ferreira has spent most of her life in Macau, only leaving for a stint in Portugal to major in international relations. Fluent in Cantonese, Portuguese and English, she’s currently involved in Asian Star 24, a reality show that focuses on the lives of two emerging Chinese pop stars.

My childhood made it possible for me to study and be part of a theatre group, practice gymnastics, learn English and take dance classes with the Portuguese folk dance group. I’d hang out with friends at Leal Senado, around the Maritime Museum, the beach for barbecues or just for a swim. I remember smiling all the time – life was simple, fun and easy.

The handover was really hard for me. I’d go to the airport two or three times a day to say goodbye to people who were a part of my life.

It’s not difficult to retain my Portuguese heritage. I have Portuguese meals at home, I keep up with events on TV and in newspapers and I hang out with Portuguese people. I’d like to see more focus on culture in all of its forms – to preserve the old Macau, because that’s what makes this place and its people special.