Sixty kilometres, 51 stops, one track. We take the circle line around the Korean capital

By Joshua Richman

Seoul’s subway system has a rainbow of eight coloured lines and more than 100 stations. But don’t be daunted, the 60 kilometre green line circles the city centre and provides easy access to many of the city’s must-see attractions. attesting to its popularity, the green line is also referred to as ‘line 2’, ‘the circle line’ and ‘the green green line’ (there’s also an olive green line).

From South Korea’s sparkling new airport, roomy limousine buses go direct to Gangnam station – the busiest station on the whole of the subway system – in about an hour. Sometimes called the ‘Manhattan of Seoul’, Gangnam is an important entertainment and commercial district. Physically, it looks a lot like Singapore’s Orchard Road: a long lane with modern, multi-storied buildings lining each side. The Manhattan reference could have something to do with price. It’s an expensive area of the city, but still well worth a visit if only for a peek at the Korean upper crust. There are franchise coffee shops on every block so grab a cup and watch the fashionably dressed Koreans rush by.

Kyobo bookstore, Seoul’s largest, is two blocks from Kangnam station. The giant brown brick building is an excellent landmark and sells books in a wide variety of languages. Restaurants tend toward top end, but for a taste of everything try Platinum (exit 8). The first floor of this microbrewery specialises in steaks cooked on heated stones, while the second floor serves up an all-you-can-eat Korean and Western buffet.

For shopping and more people watching, ride the train three stops east to Samseong station and exit 6, the COEX Mall. COEX is Seoul’s largest mall and has all the trappings of an indoor mega mall: all-weather accessibility, clean tile walkways, smells of candy, coffee, pasties; and, of course, legions of young people working on their cool. The video arcades and movie theatres showcase Korea’s growing prowess in the gaming and entertainment industries while the water tunnel at the COEX aquarium leaves a surreal impression as sharks, fish, and other denizens of the deep swim overhead.

The two lakes at Jamsil station provide an interesting contrast. Once outside exit 2, head straight until the East Lake comes into view. it’s surrounded by a padded walkway (no bikes allowed) and frequented by older, health-conscious Koreans keen on power walking. The lake blooms with fountains as the shrubbery and trees shield visitors from the bustling city. The West Lake (exit 3) is also open to the public, but the piped-in classical music is drowned out by squealing teenagers riding roller coasters or experiencing zero gravity on the Gyro Drop. The giant Lotte World Amusement Park sits atop Jamsil station and extends out into the West Lake. To join in the fun, buy a ticket in the monumental building behind the lake.

Ever wanted one of those silly T-shirts seen all over asia that say ‘Monkey make Fun LOVE’. Maybe not, but there’s a warehouse full of them at Dongdaemun Stadium station (all exits). How about a feather boa then? No? Power tools? Industrial-sized sink? second-hand records? socks? shoes? Crampons? a tailor-made suit? Hot-pink hair scrunchie? You get the picture. Dongdaemun has everything.

The shopping experience begins in the subway station itself and continues out onto the cramped sidewalks where kiosks sell low-cost items and street food. Bigger deals go down in the warehouses and enormous department stores in this multi-block shopping district famous for discounts and bulk goods. Some say the best deals are to be had after 11pm when trucks arrive from countryside factories and offload their wares. Adding to the hectically festive shopping mood, Migliore, Hello@ PM and Doota; three of the largest department stores, have stages that showcase singers, dancers, and comedians. Souvenir-minded visitors can look for deals on embroidered bedding and traditional Korean screens. Hiking gear is also considered a bargain, and don’t forget Dongdaemun Stadium. Its long-forgotten role as a baseball venue has given way to rows of shops specialising in sports equipment.

Leave by exit 1 of Sinchon station and you’ll be greeted by the massive white building of the Hyundai Department store. But it’s the three roads behind the department store that Sinchon is famous for. These three thoroughfares are chock-full of Japanese-style izakayas, billiard halls, internet cafés, DVD rooms and, mostly famously, bars. The beer here is cheap, music loud, and the pubs stay open and busy until the small hours.

Fierce competition has created a unique form of direct advertising where young men in suits hand out flyers and jokingly harass or even drag groups of young Korean women into the establishments they represent. For spicy food aficionados, try Sinchon’s Dukgalbi. Made from chicken and thick rice noodles and flavoured with heaps of red pepper, it goes great with a cold one.

One stop away, or about a ten-minute walk, is Hongik University station. Exit 5 points in the direction of the university and all the action. Hongik University has the most acclaimed arts programme in South Korea and the students are an attraction in their own right. Wearing particularly expressive clothes, holding street performances, snapping pictures or standing around holding posters that read ‘free hugs’, these students have style.

‘Hongik’ rhymes with ‘boutique’ and there are fashion shops aplenty. Restaurants, galleries and artist’s workshops dot the area, making it fun during the day, but nightlife is Hongik’s claim to fame. Club Day is held on the last Friday of every month and is the best way to experience Hongik’s clubbing scene with a 15,000 won (Us$16) ticket guaranteeing one free drink at 11 different clubs.

Hiking is a popular pastime and a ten-minute walk from exit 3 of Seoul National University station brings you to country’s most prominent university. Beside the university’s main gate is the entrance to Gwanaksan City Park. Gear up in all that outdoor wear bought at Dongdaemun and explore almost 50km of trails at Gwanaksan. The peaks offer great views of the city and cherry tree blossom in spring. at just over 600 metres above sea level, Gwanaksan is not overtaxing, but for those craving flatter terrain, the sprawling campus of the university also offers pleasant views of the mountains.

When riding the green line, the average ticket price is 1000 won (Us$0.95), trains run at three to seven-minute intervals, the cars are always clean and stations are clearly marked from street level. in this city renowned for its safety, feel free to stop on a whim and discover what some of the lesser known stations on the green line have to offer. With fifty-plus stops to choose from, green is the only way to go in Seoul.