If you want to see how modern Japanese live, head to Osaka, Tokyo’s brash and hedonistic younger brother

By Chris Willson

Although often overshadowed by Tokyo, Osaka is smaller, cooler and more cutting edge. not much to look at during the day, Osaka comes to life at night. If you’re willing to be adventurous with what you eat, how much you pay and what time you go to sleep, then welcome to bright lights, big city.

NAMBA AND SHINSAIBASHI

Namba was once the core of Osaka’s merchant quarter. Now, along with neighbouring Shinsaibashi, it forms Japan’s liveliest entertainment district. In the movie Blade Runner, director Ridley Scott presented his vision of the future: a vast urban landscape where factories belched flames into the night sky and giant video screens loomed over the workers below. Standing on Dotonbori Bridge in central Namba, it is easy to see where scott got his inspiration. The restaurants, bars and clubs don’t really come alive until after dark, but when the neon lights are blazing, Namba earns its reputation. The bridge at Dotonbori is the most popular meeting place and one of Osaka’s most famous landmarks. Beneath the neon Glico man, groups of young girls, office ladies and businessmen decide which karaoke box, restaurant or hostess bar to head to. A giant mechanical crab beckons customers into the sushi shop below, while a mechanical clown with a drum welcomes visitors to the seven-storey Kuidaore restaurant complex.

Osaka is famous for its food, of which okonomiyaki and takoyaki are probably the most popular. Okonomiyaki is a thick pancake filled with cabbage, egg and seafood, which is cooked on a hot plate in front of you. Takoyaki are small balls of batter-coated octopus that are fried then covered in sauce and fish flakes. A short walk north from Dotonbori brings you to a series of streets known collectively as Amerika-mura (American Village). A mural of Marilyn Monroe looks down on groups of teenagers as they shop for vintage jeans and T-shirts covered in nonsensical English. The bars are crowded with locals and foreign language teachers, but just as much activity is happening on the streets themselves.

UMEDA

In the north-west of the city is the business district of Umeda. The Levis and bleached blonde hair of Amerika-mura are replaced by suits and ties. Among the generic office blocks and department stores is the awe-inspiring Umeda Aky Building. At 173 metres, the twin towers are not quite Japan’s tallest structures, but the floating garden observatory, spanning the tops of the buildings, is an impressive feat of design. standing on the rooftop corridor, visitors have a 360° view of the city.

OSAKA CASTLE

By 1583, Shogun Toyotomi Hideyoshi had managed to unite Japan’s warring factions and hoped that Osaka Castle would be a glorious symbol of his power. Over 100,000 men worked for three years to construct the granite castle, but when Toyotomi died, it was his rival Tokugawa Ieyasu who gained control of Japan. In 1615, Tokugawa’s troops laid siege to and then destroyed Osaka Castle, the final stronghold of Toyotomi’s heir. The “indestructible” castle was then rebuilt only to be struck by lightning and destroyed again. The present Osaka Castle is a 1931 concrete reproduction, but has fared much better than previous generations. During World War II, when nearly all of Osaka was destroyed by carpet bombing, the castle managed to remain intact.

Cherry trees line the paths of the park that surrounds the castle. During April, when the branches are covered in blossom, thousands come here to picnic. Families, businessmen and college students all sit under the masses of pink flowers and gaze up at the castle walls.

SHITENNO-JI TEMPLE

Shitenno-ji is considered to be the birthplace of Japanese Buddhism, as it was Japan’s first officially administered temple. Prince Shotoku ordered its construction in 593 AD, but none of the original structures have survived the ravages of time. The reconstructed buildings have, however, stayed true to the original designs and layout. An impressive five-storey pagoda stands at the center of the complex, but its most renowned feature is the 13th century torii gate, the oldest of its kind in Japan. Except for national holidays and during special events, Ahitenno-ji provides a place for quiet contemplation away from the rush of modern city life.

WHEN TO GO

if you want to picnic under the cherry blossom, then the only opportunity is in the first couple of weeks in April. All other activities in Osaka are available throughout the year. Try to avoid the Japanese national holidays of New Year, Golden Week in early May and Obon in mid August. at these times, accommodation becomes extremely expensive and most major attractions will be crowded.